Day 2 - Trial by Ice

Distance: 62.3 miles

http://j.mp/kbDxET

The day dawned to a cloudy sky, dry with the sun tentatively poking through but the sky clearly leaving its options open for a spot of rain later if the mood took it.

We arose to a continental breakfast at the youth hostel remarking on how just about every aspect of the place seemed to be on the verge of disintegrating. Still, our bikes had at least slept well in the bike store and we were soon on our way, pausing only briefly at a bike shop so that James could buy a pair of water bottles.

The road was very flat to begin with as we skirted the south bank of Beauly Firth, then as we turned North the road began to rise. The occasional light rain shower toyed with us, but on the whole the conditions were good and the going was easy.

We soon joined the A835, also known as "The Road". This, I remarked, is the best thing about cycle touring in Northern Scotland, the complete lack of the need for a map. The village you are aiming for, 50 odd miles distant, will be signposted from the beginning as you follow the one same road all the way. As The Road wound steadily upward through an increasingly more wild landscape the sun began to shine.

After a brief stop at a spot called Black Water Bridge we paused for lunch at a little hotel in the middle of nowhere called Inchbae Lodge, a lonely building just off the road. Flowers grew up one wall, which hummed to the tune of more than a dozen bumble bees. We sat basking in the sun at a picnic bench enjoying soup and ginger beer. 

I even put sunscreen on my arms at this point; big mistake.

Barely a couple of miles further up the road we were suddenly above the tree line, and soon after passing the imposing structure of Loch Glascarnoch dam we topped out at 279 metres above sea level. I remarked that the road was all downhill from here.

"Is that thundercloud getting nearer?" Michelle asked.

"Don't think so" I lied.

The road began to slope away from us most agreeably and we rolled onward happily for several miles before stopping to do the tourist thing and paused to take a look at some waterfalls. A footpath led down to a suspension bridge viewing platform above a chasm at least 100ft deep. We were marvelling at this when a light drizzle began to fall.

As we climbed our way back up the path the weather seemed yet more determined to play the part of a cruel and unpredictable mistress opened the heavens on us. To James' cry of "let's get the hell out of here!" and the crack of thunder and lightning we sped off.

The road fell away down a steep incline taking us with it. The rain followed and as we tore down the valley in a vain attempt to get out from under the thundercloud the hail began. Meeting hailstones at 45mph was a new and rather shocking experience for me, as was hearing James' accompanying manic laughter.

The rain followed us all the way to Ullapool, soaking us completely. Fortunately the dry warmth of the B&B was waiting for us. A hot shower and a delicious meal in a nearby pub were more than welcome.